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Adding a C14 connector to my Mikrotik switch

Recently, I bought some used mikrotik CRS326-24G-2S+RM These switches are remarkable 1g switches for the price, but they have one flaw: they use an external power adapter So, I decided to add an IEC C14 connector to it.


Adding a C14 connector to my Mikrotik switch

Recently, I bought some used mikrotik CRS326-24G-2S+RM

MikroTik

MikroTik makes networking hardware and software, which is used in nearly all countries of the world. Our mission is to make existing Internet technologies faster, more powerful and affordable to wider range of users.


These switches are remarkable 1g switches for the price, but they have one flaw that some sysadmins consider a pretty big one: they use an external power adapter

Feasibility

Mikrotik also has the same version which is a bit smaller and not rack mounted (the CRS326-24G-2S+IN) which makes me think the motherboard in the rack mounted version is the same 😅

The back of the switch has an IEC C14 cutout in the metal, it's like one of their engineer knew someone was going to do this 🤣

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The power adapter itself is a 24v 1.2amp one

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And the input on the switch specify a range of 10v to 28v, so it should be pretty easy to find a replacement power supply

Adding the IEC C14 connector was a no-brainer really, I only needed the connector and power supply.

Parts

After a quick Amazon search, I choose this adapter, mainly because it matched the original one pretty well and was the fastest delivery one: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B08P8S4SY6

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I also bought these connectors: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07YTZYSTT
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Wiring everything

I got some wires from an old 220v cable, soldered them to the C14 connector added some heat shrink and screwed the other side to the power supply input

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As I predicted, 1/3 of the case is empty, leaving more than enough space for the power supply

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So, I went on and broke the little tabs, screwed in the C14 connector and connected the power supply:

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To actually power the switch, I hesitated between soldering straight to the board and making a wire+connector come out of the case. As the switch is already out of warranty, so I decided to solder directly to the board.

Fortunately, the PCB has some holes that I can use properly instead of soldering to the connector tabs:

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I also added the earth from the IEC C14 to a screw that touched the chassis:

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After a quick test to confirm, it still lighted up 🔥 :

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I added a little piece of tape between the original connector and the case so that I wouldn't accidentally power it from here:

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Finishing up

And finally, I closed everything and put it back to work on my desk:

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Conclusion

All in all, this is an effortless mod that solves a relatively big issue, and I'll repeat it to the other two switches I own 😄

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